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Food&StayExplore Plan 3

In the Important Nature Conservation History of Japan,
Hiking the Wetlands and Staying in Authentic Mountain Lodges at "Oze"

Traveler

My name is Isabek.
I am from the Kyrgyz Republic and have been working in Japan for eight years. Surrounded by mountains over 5,000 meters high, with residential areas above 3,000 meters, people often ask me, “Why climb Japan's low mountains?” This time, I'd like to share my reasons.

Name: Isabek Uraimov Hobby: nature tourism

Name: Isabek Uraimov
Hobby: nature tourism

My Recommendations

  • Enjoy untouched nature, suitable for beginners to advanced climbers.
  • Experience one of Japan's premier wetlands and learn about its environmental conservation history.
  • Stay in a mountain lodge where you can interact with nature lovers.

You can easily achieve a sense of accomplishment from trekking while immersing yourself in beautiful nature.

Escaping the suffocating Tokyo to the Japanese countryside.

Escaping the suffocating Tokyo to the
Japanese countryside.

I came to Japan in my teens. The 24-hour buzzing metropolis was stimulating and fun. Thanks to my relentless pursuit of learning Japanese, I am now entrusted with managing a restaurant. However, being deeply immersed in the city, I sometimes long for the quiet, beautiful nature—clean air, the scent of forests, and the sounds of birds—similar to my hometown in Kyrgyzstan. Upon hearing about the untouched nature here, I decided to visit “Oze.”

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Riding the Train and Bus to the Trailhead
Riding the Train and Bus to the Trailhead

Riding the Train and Bus to the Trailhead

I took the Tobu Limited Express from Asakusa Station, a tourist hotspot in Tokyo, and got off at Aizutajima Station. After switching to the Aizu bus, I traveled for about five hours. This time, I chose an easy course that takes about 70 minutes on foot from the trailhead to the lodge by the lakeside. You can walk it in regular sneakers. Although Oze has untouched nature, it is also accessible. The charm of Oze lies in having courses suitable for beginners and serious peak hunts.

As a side note, I have experience climbing the famous Mt. Fuji and Kanagawa's Oyama, a mountain often climbed by trekking enthusiasts in Tokyo. These mountains, known for their great views, attract many people. Am I the only one who doesn't want to feel like I'm in the Shibuya scramble crossing in the midst of nature?

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This Is It!
The Overwhelming Scent of Coniferous Forests

First, I walked for 30 minutes through the forest.

First, I walked for 30 minutes through the
forest.

The hike starts with a 30-minute climb and descent through a forest hill. If you feel out of breath, please stop and take a deep breath. The scent of conifers will fill your lungs. Japan's rain-soaked forests are fresh and lush, with aromas that are not overpowering, unlike those in Kyrgyzstan. I think it embodies Japan. Along the path, some trees are marked with red lines, which serve as guides when snow accumulates.

Study at the mountain travel guide office

It is said that even in areas where snow doesn't accumulate easily, it can pile up to nearly 2 meters. While the trails in Oze close during winter, I've heard that serious Japanese alpinists sometimes enter the area with skis. There are even more authentic forests in Oze, and I was advised that the best time to visit is before the rainy season in June, when the fresh greenery is stunning.

natural hot spring

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The Grassy Autumn Leaves of Oze Wetlands Announce the Change of Seasons

Upon finishing the forest walk, I encountered a vast wetland.

As the forest walk ended, the sky opened up to reveal Ōe Marsh Land. When I visited at the end of September, the grass had turned a beautiful yellow. Oze, being in a cold region, has soil rich in meltwater, which prevents bacteria from decomposing the vegetation, resulting in peat accumulation and thus the formation of grasslands instead of tall trees. Oze is one of Japan's heavy snowfall areas, and during winter, it is said that 3 to 5 meters of snow can accumulate in this wetland. This environment is what creates the wetland. Peat forms at a rate of only 0.7 millimeters per year.

This means that if a human leaves a footprint of 7 centimeters, they can destroy 100 years of natural processes. Hence, boardwalks are laid throughout Oze, extending a total of 65 kilometers—a daunting endeavor for nature conservation.

I've heard that until the mid-20th century, hikers used to walk through the wetlands haphazardly, and litter was scattered around, reflecting the impact of over-tourism. Nowadays, not only in Oze but in any national park in Japan, you won't find a single piece of garbage. Every visitor takes their waste back with them.

Study at the mountain travel guide office

In spring and summer, Oze Wetland turns into a natural garden.

With a long winter in Oze, flowers bloom simultaneously during the short spring and summer. They sprout, flower, and seed during the snow-free period. However, due to climate change, the wild deer population has increased, resulting in a decrease in valuable flora and fauna. Measures are currently being implemented, like fencing areas such as Oze Wetland to prevent deer from entering.

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Experiencing the Mystical Lake, "Oze-numa."

I arrived at the destination of my mountain journey, "Oze-numa." What does untouched nature truly mean?

I reached the lakeside of Oze-numa. This lake was formed about 8,000 years ago when a volcano collapsed and dammed the area. Currently, fishing and boating are prohibited, allowing waterfowl to gracefully play and large fish to leap freely. It is a mystical lake, untouched by human presence.

I've heard that this beautiful lake was also threatened to be turned into a hydroelectric dam about 100 years ago. The owner of hutte name Chōzo Hirano entered Oze to resist,eventually rallying many politicians, scholars, media, and locals to voice opposition, which led to the withdrawal of the dam construction.
The electric company then retracted its plans and became the largest sponsor of Oze.

Nowadays, the lodges and visitor centers around Oze-numa are powered by underground cables to prevent damage to nature, and wastewater is treated outside Oze before being discharged.

Readers who have felt a dissonance with my previous phrase "untouched nature" may have realized that this "untouched nature" is preserved precisely because of the meticulous human intervention. In a society where human influence on nature has become too significant, leaving nature untouched is not conservation. I witnessed firsthand at Oze that the preservation of untouched nature comes from actively protecting it.

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Introducing Lakeside Spots

Chōzō Lodge Store Various souvenirs are sold for visitors.

Chōzō Lodge Store Various souvenirs are sold for visitors.

You can enjoy cold drinks and coffee made from meltwater. There is also a café in the annex where you can have pizza, curry, and cake. I saw people happily enjoying lunch beer.

natural hot spring
Hinoemata's famous soba reaches its new soba season

Oze-numa Visitor Center Displays the nature
of Oze.

There are videos, taxidermy of animals, and panels showing bird sounds. I had the experience of "bokka," which involves carrying loads. Urban elementary and middle school students learn outdoors at places like this.

natural hot spring

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Staying at the Authentic Mountain Lodge
"Chōzō Lodge."

I stayed at the lodge opened by Oze's guardian, "Hirano Chōzō."

I stayed at the lodge opened by Oze's guardian, "Hirano Chōzō."

The lodge I stayed at is "Chōzō Lodge," the oldest lodge in Oze, built in 1936. It is a large wooden structure accommodating 180 people. With its traditional Japanese house design, those fond of architecture will surely be impressed. They even offer bath services.

The dining room, featuring impressive wooden beams.The dining room, featuring impressive wooden beams.
Private bedrooms equipped with a unique Japanese heating system called a kotatsu.Private bedrooms equipped with a unique Japanese heating system called a "kotatsu."
Nearby, there is a village-operated mountain lodge, Oze-numa Hutte.

Nearby, there is a village-operated mountain lodge, "Oze-numa Hutte."

I took a peek at the nearby Oze-numa Hutte. Upon asking, I learned it is managed by Hinoemata Village and features a striking large wooden terrace. If I get another chance to visit, I'd love to leisurely enjoy stargazing with the provided large telescope.

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A soak in a natural hot spring and looking forward to dinner.

A Dinner with a Rich Menu of Japanese
and Western Dishes

There were various dishes, primarily centered around Japanese cuisine. The main dish was a hamburger, but since I dislike meat, I requested a grilled salmon instead. They mentioned that they can accommodate such requests if informed at the time of reservation. I was amazed at the variety of dishes served in such a remote mountain location.

A place to connect with untouched nature and nature-loving people.

What did you think of my stay in Oze? The fragrant forests, the colorful wetlands, and the tranquil lakeside were all serene places filled with clean air. While many might focus on the cities and ancient capitals in Japan, I was moved by the presence of untouched nature and the genuine efforts of individuals and organizations who love and protect it. Even someone from a mountainous country like me feels this way. Those coming from urban areas may feel even more profound emotions.

In the on-season, meltwater constantly wells up.

In the on-season, meltwater constantly wells up.

In the garden of the lodge where I stayed, safe and clean meltwater springs forth. I even saw some guests mixing it with whiskey.

Reflecting on the Journey Next time,

Reflecting on the Journey Next time,

I want to go peak hunting. Although I postponed it this time, when I return to Oze, I aim to reach the mountain's summit. This national park offers various ways to enjoy the journey.

iconItenary of the Experience

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Arrived Miike Parking Loticon
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Miike Parking Lot to Oe Marshlandicon
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Oe Marshlandicon
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Lake Ozenumaicon
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Facilities along the Shores of Lake Ozenumaicon
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Chōzō Lodgeicon
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A Dinner with a Rich Menuicon

My journey @Hinoemata Village

Thanks to the abundant water supply in Oze, all Inns and Ryokans in Hinoemata Village offer hot spring baths. There are also three public baths in the village.

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